Tips on how to remove needle valve?

takadi · Post by **takadi** » Sat Mar 17, 2012 6:05 pm

I am not really handy so I am having a bit of trouble removing the needle valve from a used azoo regulator I have. I am trying to replace with a dual needle valve. I'm not sure if the thing is glued on or something because it is impossible for me to even budge it. The crescent wrench I'm using is starting to make dents into the valve and the threading so I don't think I'm doing it right

Post by **krisw** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:23 am

I've had a lot of trouble with getting older Milwaukee needle valves off as well. I think that sometimes water from the bubble counter gets down into the needle value connections, causing rust/corrosion. In my cases, I definitely made lot of dents in the needle valve to remove it, but wasn't planning on reusing it in the first place. The only thing I can suggest is to use a wrench with a long handle to maximize the amount of torque you're putting on the connection. That said, dent up the outside of the needle valve all you want, but don't damage the threading, or you'll cause potential leaks on the next connection.

takadi · Post by **takadi** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 10:50 am

I'll probably have to end up buying a splitter that attaches to the current needle valve. Much more expensive and I'm unsure of how reliable it is, but I just can't get this needle valve to unscrew itself. Does anyone have a vice I can borrow?

Jim Miller · Post by **Jim Miller** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 12:19 pm

It's common for manufacturers to use anaerobic thread locker for this type of application. It's far more reliable in creating a leakproof seal in a production environment than Teflon tape or paste. It's also much faster to apply properly. A vice to hold the body and a pair of vice grips on the valve is usually the only way to remove. The manufacturer could have used a less aggressive locker (blue or purple vs red) but likely doesn't give much thought to user mods.

Jim

Jim Miller · Post by **Jim Miller** » Mon Mar 19, 2012 8:02 pm

Although it may not be feasible here heat is normally use to help break red Loctite. Purple and blue only require hand tools.

Jim

takadi · Post by **takadi** » Mon Mar 19, 2012 11:46 pm

From what I can see, the glue around it is bluish green, so I'm assuming it's only blue?

Jim Miller · Post by **Jim Miller** » Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:06 am

Do you have a butane "match"? Or perhaps a soldering iron? If so try heating just the needle valve but NOT the regulator then use vice grips on the needle valve.

J

Jim Miller · Post by **Jim Miller** » Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:40 am

The heat will permanently destroy the chemical bond. So don't get the regulator hot as the locker may be used elsewhere.

JLW · Post by **JLW** » Tue Mar 20, 2012 5:07 pm

Considering who is having the trouble here ... one other very important piece of advice.

Tighty righty,
Lefty loosey.

+1 to heating it with a torch or iron. Also, try sliding a piece of PVC pipe over the handle of your wrench, and using that to increase your torque. As a fish geek, you probably have plenty of PVC laying around.

150EH · Post by **150EH** » Wed Mar 21, 2012 3:00 pm

The green thread lock is a water proof thread lock that can be applied after the connection is made and it seeps into the threads, heat will break the bond but it may also destroy the diaphragm in the regulator, if you attempt to add heat make sure to open any valves to full open and have a bucket of water near by to cool the regulator. I'm sure the only reason they would do this is to keep you buying after you destroy the regulator, good luck.