Blackwater tank final plan before set up!

Discuss specific plants, general plant care, help setting up a plant tank, rare plants, and general help
Post Reply
kerokero
Posts: 287
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 7:28 pm
Real Name: Corey W
Location: Northern VA

Blackwater tank final plan before set up!

Post by kerokero »

Ok, so I'm about ready to start setting up this tank... did lots of research, figured out how I wanted to go about it, and ready to take the plunge! Figured I should run it by those who know more to see if there are any glaring issues...

33L is the chosen tank (short but long), and I'm hoping to do a leaf-mold substrate (~4in deep - I have primarily oak forest around me to collect from), manzinita wood for furniture, and trying to avoid any significant rock work. Water will be RO and/or distilled and treated with wild almond, oak, and beech leaves primarily (which will also be added as more leaf litter in the tank) to bring the pH down (4-5.5?) and probably variable between 4 and 6 inches deep, possibly deeper depending on how I plant.

The planting will ideally be a clump of a blackwater crypt species (which the whole tank is primarily designed around) and I will entertain ideas of other plants that might work - I envision some mosses of the Vesicularia genus like Xmas, Weeping, Erect and Singapore moss (which are listed in the Melasian Moss Database), and maybe one of the tiny threadlike forms of Java Fern but don't know if they can handle those conditions. Ideally I see them growing emergently on the manzinita that will go above the water line (since it needs to be rather shallow) and just trailing into the water to break up the monotony of the crypts. I've not decided on if it will have a sump or not since I've not done one before... but I've entertained having a sump full of sphagnum moss, emersed java fern, and maybe utricularia all to help scrub the water on top of other filtration (as yet undetermined, but not high flow). Light will be low, and likely only one cool white bulb, possibly two.

Fish will ideally be some Licorice Gouramis (Paros - which should thrive in those conditions and at least one species is often collected from clumps of blackwater crypts) with a Boraras sp as a dither fish (B. merah preferably if I can get the rest of the stuff from Borneo, otherwise B. maculatus) which are also collected with some Paro species and look their best in these conditions.

Ideally I'd like to have it Borneo specific but I don't know how hard it would be to get the crypt and Paro species from there, so I may have to keep it to what I can find :(

Thoughts? Recomendations?
Best, Corey
User avatar
DelawareJim
Posts: 1249
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2003 4:25 pm
Real Name: Jim Michaels
Location: Southeast PA

Post by DelawareJim »

Sounds good.

You shouldn't have any trouble sticking with a Borneo biotope. I'd keep the water movement to a minimum so as to not have decomposing leaves, mulm, and plants blowing around the tank.

The Crypts you'll want are; any from the Cordata group, edithiae, ferruginea, fusca, griffithii, hudoroi, ideii, keei, lingua, longicauda, noritoi, pallidinervia, x purpurea nothovar. borneoensis, striolata, uenoi, yujii, and zaidiana.

Aaron, Ghazanfar, Sean, and I have most of these species in varying quantities. Noritoi is probably the easiest to grow, but looks a lot like moehlmannii and pontederiifolia which are not from Borneo but is readily available in the club. The cordatas, ferruginea, fusca, longicauda, and yugii are probably next easiest.

To learn more for each species, visit Jan bastmeijer's Crypt site.
http://www.xs4all.nl/~crypts/Cryptocoryne/index.html

You can also go with Barclaya longifolia, and if you want some stems, any of the Hygrophilas, Limnophilas, Pogostemons, or Rotalas.

Cheers.
Jim
kerokero
Posts: 287
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 7:28 pm
Real Name: Corey W
Location: Northern VA

Post by kerokero »

The filter on the tank is undecided mainly because I'm not sure if I really should do something other than sponges, and if pulling out water into a sump will actually help the water quality. The sump could also act as a refugia for some of the live foods on top of the cultures I will have to have going. This is the big part holding me up, but I figure the leaf mold and starting off the crypts (rooting them and then raising the water level) will take a number of months anyways and I will have time to figure it out.

I have pontederiifolia doing rather well for me right now so I'd be hesitant to get the noritoi if it's so similar. I'd ideally like to keep it to just one species of crypt, so it may just end up being what I can actually get, but I will research all the species you mentioned (particularly the easy ones) :) This is why I love you guys!

The only immediate downer I know about the other plants mentioned is - as far as I know - they all like a pretty good amount of light. That is going to be a severly limited factor in this tank which is why the main plants of interest are crypts, mosses, and smaller java ferns :lol: I know it makes for a dark tank, but shier species like Paros tend to not like it (floating crypt leaves on the surface seem to be why they like hiding in them), and I didn't think the crypts were particularly light hungry either.

Has anyone had much experience with the leaf mold style of growing blackwater crypts? I know the method is described with Beech tree leaf mold. I plan to use locally collected (from my backyard, bwhahaha) leaf mold that is primarily oak. Would this provide a significant difference? Or do I just need to try and find out? I will be using a layer of "fresh" leaf litter on top of the leaf mold to try and keep the mulm more where it should be, and to give breeding spots for the Paros.

Would varying the water level throughout the year be beneficial? I know it could be helpful for flowering, and I know that these guys get flooded during the rainy season. I'm sure the fish would benefit from this too (a key to breeding the Boraras in the tank!). With such small fish involved, and gradual changes, they could take the water level in the tank going down significantly. Or I can even go to the degree of pulling the fish, but I'd rather not.
Best, Corey
kerokero
Posts: 287
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 7:28 pm
Real Name: Corey W
Location: Northern VA

Post by kerokero »

Huh, so the crypt site says C. noritoi is actually found in limestone springs, can take hard water and up to a pH of 8, but still enjoys growing in Beech/Fagus sp. leaf mold. No wonder it's considered easy... but would it really enjoy a pH of 4-5 constantly?
Best, Corey
User avatar
DelawareJim
Posts: 1249
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2003 4:25 pm
Real Name: Jim Michaels
Location: Southeast PA

Post by DelawareJim »

Most of mine have been in Fagus soil and distilled water since I brought them back from ECS2007 (11/2007). As it decomposed, they did increasingly better. Some that I've moved into ADA Aquasoil Amazonia have done just as well.

Cheers.
Jim
Post Reply

Sponsors