HELP & ADVICE: Planted Tank : Mineralized Soil : Tear-Do

[Tyger]

BACKGROUND:

I have 65-Gallon (36x18x24) that I am planning to renovate on several levels. First and the primary reason for this post, I am going to pull the undergravel filter and convert from pure Eco-Complete to a mineralized soil substrate (GWAPA-AT Mixture). In addition, I plan to use the empty tank opportunity to reconfigure a couple of things: (1) pull the undergravel filter as noted; (2) add inline diffuser, heater, and possibly uv-sterilizer), (3) run 5/8-inch line instead of 3/4-inch filter tube-lines, (4) installing two black tubes to surround mircobubble airstones to provide extra oyxgenation whiel limiting surface disturbance as tiger hillstream loaches benefit from richer oxygen levels and I love these fish, (5) upgrading lighting catalina to tek-light to maximize reflected light given tank depth, and (6) installing lighting stand arms or ceiling hanging unit.

MINERALIZE SOIL & RENOVATION:

In any case, I am in the process of converting from purely Eco-Complete to a mineralized soil substrate. Consequently, I thought I would share some of my thoughts and ask some questions to benefit from the experience and knowledge of others. As I understand it, Aaron's Mineralized Soil (GWAPA-AT Mixture) consists of the following: Top Soil (Mineralized); Pottery Clay; Dolomite; Muriate of Potash; Gravel (Eco-Complete Black). In this regard, I was wondering a few things:

• Top Soil Question - I purchased a Cowart Premium Top Soil (40-lbs) which seems like the right stuff in terms of the 'no additives.' Although I just started the process of mineralizing topsoil, I was just running the calculations. I was reading that "a good average density for topsoil is 100 pounds per cubic foot" (Wiki). When I consider that my tank is about 4.5 square feet and I am looking to cover the bottom with mineralized topsoil to a depth of about 1.25-1.50 inches with 3-sided gravel frame, I am still looking at filling 4.0-4.25 square-feet and figure I need 55-60-lbs for straight coverage. When I consider the addition of clay and sand additives against the soil compression and soil lost in mineralization process, I figure I am still about 10-15-lbs short with a single bag.
  • Question: Is this a reasonable guestimation - which boils down to getting an extra bag of top soil and, on the good news side, having extra soil for future smaller tanks.
• Questions About Pottery Clay - As I understand it the clay services two purposes: (1) a source of iron and (2) binds with soil as a flocculating agent which will help the soil to settle back to the bottom of the tank when plants are uprooted or disturbed. In addition, I read that, at least at one point, Tom Barr wrote that he added sand to the soil to for the same purpose at a 1:1 ratio (I think I remember it was a 50/50 soil to sand). So, I guess that I had a couple of questions:
  • I was wondering what the general thoughts were regarding florite sand versus clay as both sources of iron and flocculating agents... what are folks thoughts on using clay alone, sand alone, or both clay and sand? If a mixture, what are thoughts on ratios soil:clay:sand?
  • I guestimate that I need about 4.5 to 5.5 lbs of clay to get ratio of 90/10 soil/sand - correct? In terms of clay, I noticed a lot of clay has additives. Is this appropriate saw this clay? Anyone have any recommendations on where to purchase the appropriate clay?
  • If sand is a part of the equation, I was wondering about using the new Black Florite Sand?
• Question About Dolomite - As I understand it, the dolomite (1) provide plants with the necessary calcium and magnesium they need for healthy growth and (2) that the calcium and magnesium in the dolomite will also help to keep the soil from becoming too acidic. Similarly, I read on "Setting-Up A Walstad Natural Planted Tank," if the soil is acidic, you can use powdered dolomite lime mixed, if you have soft water add pelleted dolomite lime or crushed shells to gradually increase the level of hard water nutrients over time. Okay, I am not sure that I understand the advice completely. I have pretty soft water (due, I believe, to water in Annapolis, MD and four cypress knees arranged in groups of two - tank water is 0-1 KH though I do add Baking Soda to keep at 4-6 KH). Of course, I would prefer not to have to add Baking Soda. In addition, I have noted that I have under 20mg/l (ppm) according to NutraFin Ca Freshwater Test.
  • So, I guess my question is what do folks recommend - dolomite? dolomite pellets? crushed shells? both?
  • Any recommendations as to where to purchase dolomite or dolomite pellets and/or crushed shells that would be good for the task?
• Questions About Muriated Potash - As I understand it, "pot ash" is added as an initial potassium source. I remember reading though I cannot remember where... that someone believed muriated potash was responsible for their initial difficulties keeping shrimp. As I keep two bamboo shrimp, several amanos, and numerous cherry shrimp, I was wondering whether or not this is true?
  • Does muriated potash present problems for shrimp? What have others experienced? Obviously, I would rather just dose potassium than lose my shrimp (lol, trying to catch them to put them in a holding tank is going to be a challenge as it is...).
  • Where would I get muriated potash?
• Questions About Capping Substrate - I have been using Eco-Complete Black for the last year and I have found it is pleasing too view (nice contrast to plants, petrified wood (stone), and wood), does a pretty good job holding stems until rooted, and seems to suit the fish and shrimp (i.e., not to rough for tiger hillstream loaches, cories, or shrimp). In researching the web, I have read that a lot of folks are using it for cap with great effect.
  • Is there any other advice or things to know about capping with Eco-Complete?

OTHER QUESTIONS:

I have never done a major tank renovation. In terms of the actual change-over, I wanted to get some advice regarding tear-down and restoration of the tank. Generally speaking, I planned drain my current tank into storage tank and bins to hold flora and fauna while I do the tear-down. I should be able to preserve most of it (30-40 gallons of the 65-gallons). I understand how to set-up the mineralized soil recipe to the tank. I will leave the water in the tubes and Canister Filter (about 3-4 gallons). I will keep the current gravel wet with original tank water and use it as a cap plus add another bag of fresh Eco-Complete to the mixture. I plan to use the tank water as the base and fill the rest with tap and use a full dose of Prime as well as Stress-Eyzme. I plan to restart the tank with plants and run for a time to let things settle prior to adding the fauna back to the tank. While I have the basics, I wanted to ask a couple of questions:

• Given the outlined plan, I was wondering how long I should wait until I add the fauna back into the tank. Obviously, I will test water parameters along the way though I was wondering what would be a rought estimate of time. If it would help to know the specific fauna, I have the following:
  • Inverts: zebra nerites, assassin snails, amano shrimp, bamboo shrimp, and cherry shrimp.
  • Fish: Cories (Julii), Otos (Affins), True SAE, Tiger Hillstream Loaches, Cardinal Tetras, Celestial Dianos, Cherry Barbs, White Clouds (Long-Finned), Red Velvet Swordtails (Hi-Fin, Lyretail), and Angels.
• Given the outlined plan, I was wondering about any special care for plants which I plan to transfer to holding bin with original tank water - just long enough to make the changes to the tank I want to make.
  • Plants: Aciotis acuminifolia, Anubias barteri (nana & nana 'petite'), Anubias hastfolia, Blyxa Japonica, Cambomba Caroliniana (Green & Silver), Cryptocoryne Nurii, Hyptis lorentziana, Hygrophila (Araguaia & odora), Lagenandra Meeboldii, Ludwigia (Rebens & Sp. Red), Ludwigia senegalensis, Najas roraima, Persicaria praetermissa, Pogostemon Helferi, Pogostemon erectus, Rotala (sp. Colorata), and Staurogyne (Porto Velho).

Obviously, I plan to maximize what I am to accomplish during this renovation and, so, am doing a lot. I am open to advice, questions, comments, and such. I find that I always benefit from the advice and wisdom of others. Thank-you, in advance, for your time and thoughts.

~Tyger (Michael)~

[krisw]

I'll let other folks who've used soil substrate more than I answer those questions, but in regards to doing a tank breakdown, this is what I do:

- Use tank water for fish in bucket with an air-stone running the whole time. I also add some stress-zyme to help them out a little bit. If you can avoid feeding the fish for 2-3 days prior, that'll clear out their gut, so they'll produce less waste, which can foul up the bucket water.

- For short-term storage of plants, I just throw them in a bucket with tank water. Otherwise, I'll throw them in another tank, or in ziplock containers to keep the humidity levels high. Not a lot of water required. They'll keep just fine in containers like this for several days to a week, just like if you were shipping them. Some plants like Anubias/Java Fern can be can't like this for much longer in a windowsill.

- Another bucket of tank water. (Pull out all of this water FIRST before catching fish, pulling up plants, removing hardscape items, etc, or you'll stir up too much crap in your tank.)

If all I'm doing is a rescape, I will usually fill the tank back up with water part way, then add back some of the water from the old tank. I'll let it churn about for a few hours, then, over a period of 15-30 minutes, add water from the tank into the bucket with the fish to acclimate them to any slight changes in composition/temperature. Then, I'll add the fish into the tank.

Since you're fully changing out the substrate, and using soil which could contain any number of things, it's a lot harder to say how long you should wait to add fish. To be on the safe side, you may want to setup a temporary QT-style bare-bottom tank with tank water and filter media from the old tank now. That would allow you the option to house them several weeks if the soil is leeching anything nasty. It's not uncommon for a soil tank to take months before inverts can survive. Fish are usually more tolerant.

Keep in mind that anytime you do this, you're creating a stressful environment for your fish. Even if you do everything perfectly, you still could lose fish. Due to the substrate change, don't be surprised if your Cryptocoryne melt after replanting. Leave them there, and they'll grow new leaves.

Finally, if you're not already running your canister filter on that tank now, you may want to start for several weeks prior to doing the tear down. That way, even though you'll be disrupting the bacterial colony in the substrate, your filter/plants will already be nice and dirty with bacteria, so you won't have to worry as much about cycling the tank.

'Hope this helps!

[ingg]

Do you happen to write long scientific papers for a living or something?

[Tyger]

I'll let other folks who've used soil substrate more than I answer those questions, but in regards to doing a tank breakdown, this is what I do:

[snipped instructions to save space]

'Hope this helps!

Kris, thanks, I really apprecite the guide/instructions.

Do you happen to write long scientific papers for a living or something?

At one time, I wrote psychological evaluations though I tend to be a little on the verbose side... give 'em too much rather than not enough information - lol.